Who cares what the power consumption is especially in a class D power amp?
1 to 1? Oh geez. I hope they never show up at my house!Bottom line is that Mark needs to get his amp to guitar ratio back in balance (1 guitar= 1 amplifier). He needs to rectify this situation before the Gear Police show up to take inventory...
Steve
I've looked at both longingly but as a dyed in the wool tube snob I can't justify the price. For that money you're getting into top of the line Quilter range, and I hear they are the cat's pajamas.
Bottom line, I would and occasionally do consider solid state amplification. For those near $1K prices I'd want more than a tube clone. View attachment 9441
So...get both.
So, "both" aside, what would you look for in a SS amp? For my part I'm shopping for something that's not a modeling amp, rather "tube like" but with SS light weight and reliability—a tube clone (heh).
Not if it copies the real deals if my Twin will break up at all I haven't found the 11 knobI'd say the key factors would be clean headroom and moving air..
If they truly behave like the tube versions, the Deluxe will break up slightly sooner then the Twin.
There will not be a huge difference in total volume though.
My guess is, for most smaller venues, that you're likely to play in, either one will be way more volume then you'll need.
I'd further guess, that you won't be relying on the amps for your break up tone anyways.
Once you start running O/D pedals into them it won't make any difference which one you pick because the amp tone will be clean and the O/D pedal will give you the crunch you'll want.
If you think your future will have you on a big stage that accepts loud amps for big audiences, get the Twin because the 2 X 12s will push more air to fill bigger spaces.
Having said that, if you're looking for less weight and more portability the Twin takes you in the wrong direction.
Not if it copies the real deals if my Twin will break up at all I haven't found the 11 knob
Right,..........when you get into 100 and 200 watt amps, you're not gonna get much if any breakup.Not if it copies the real deals if my Twin will break up at all I haven't found the 11 knob
I'm on 17 acres and Vikki encourages me to crank my amps, at 5 with a Strat mine gets that Jimi clean tone, my ears won't take it much above thatA real Black Face or early to mid Silver Face (100 watt not the 135’s) should start to break up with the volume around 6 or so with a Strat and earlier with buckers, pickup output depending of course, and the mids at 3+. They should be pretty broken when dimed with most normal output pickups.
I have had a number of twins in my stable or on my work bench over the years and there is quite a bit of variation between them, but I have never had one that stayed clean when completely cranked. Put in some foam ear plugs and then some shooting muffs on top and crank it. It should get nasty...and so will your wife and neighbors.
Get both...
Steve
Right,..........when you get into 100 and 200 watt amps, you're not gonna get much if any breakup.
Just buy the twin and figure it out
In a tube amp you need the signal to basically overload the tube so it distorts the waveform (aka breakup) Not a big problem in the pre amp but in the power amp of a high wattage amp, that becomes a very LOUD issue, which is why real attenuators were created for guitar amps.Methinks this realm is where these amps break from being "just" SS amps: when you crank the gain into earbleed zones they break up like the tube versions (that was shown on a couple of the demos I saw), just like the "real" ones. The trick is (and this is why the attenuator dial matters) you can then dial the power back so you're still getting the same pushing into breakup but the apparent volume comes down into usable levels (IIRC one of the demos had it cranked around 8). Sort of like using a distortion pedal in reverse. At least that's my understanding of the tech.