L
Lame_Pinkey
Guest
Jackson XMG this has a Floyd Rose & the locking nut thingy , so I'm not sure about raising the action on this guitar , any advice ?
LP
LP
FishKiller
Blues Newbie
Can't you just "float" the bridge more to increase the action? On a strat, loosen the tension on the springs, and the bridge floats more. I think this is what you are asking, no sure with the locking tremlo stuff.
Carlos
Carlos
Cyberthrasher_706
Blues Newbie
Step 8 under tuning here. I'm not sure of your exact floyd rose model, but I checked all their bridge offerings and it looked like they all had the same style adjustment.
http://www.floydrose.com/bridges/OriginalFloydRoseInfo.php
http://www.floydrose.com/bridges/OriginalFloydRoseInfo.php
Crossroads
Thump the Bottom
Trying to remember how I did it on my Kahler. That was same deal with locking nut. But I do remember locking nut made no difference all adjustment in the bridge.
I think there were allen nuts on each saddle which would raise or lower each one dependant on turning clokwise or counter.
I think there were allen nuts on each saddle which would raise or lower each one dependant on turning clokwise or counter.
Jon3b
Blues Newbie
At the bridge end, it's simply a matter of turning the pivot screws out. If you need to raise the nut as well, you'll have to remove the 3 string clamps to access the attachment screws underneath and then install shims. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Floyd_Rose_tremolos_and_parts/Locking_Nut_Shims.html
Jon3b
Blues Newbie
Some added notes on the locking nut. I dragged my Dean ML out yesterday after having left it in it's case for several months. It's more of a shredder axe with all 24 frets easily accessable, but with really high output pickups and no tone control; not exactly fit for old-school blues. 
You'd like it LP.
However, the action, compared to my Epiphones is (was) really high. With this thread still fresh in mind, I went to work. A 1/4" thick shim went under the back of the bridge assembly to keep it from bottoming out agaist the body while the strings are loose. The strings don't need to be fully removed, just slack enough to lift them out of the nut slots and let rest three on either side. I removed the three string clamps, pulled the strings aside and removed the nut. It's just two small wood screws that attach it to the neck. Under the nut were two full width shims of 150 grit sandpaper plus a third half-width piece under the bass side. .030" worth of shims that really didn't need to be there. The half width stayed under the bass side of the nut and the bridge pivot screws got 4 and 5 full turns (bass/treble sides respectively) clockwise. (they have very fine threads compared to the posts used on a Tun-o-matic) I could go lower, but doing so tends to hinder clean bends.
There ya go LP, you don't need brass shims to raise the nut. I would recommend them, though, as sandpaper can be a bit spongy. Not good for note sustain.
You'd like it LP. However, the action, compared to my Epiphones is (was) really high. With this thread still fresh in mind, I went to work. A 1/4" thick shim went under the back of the bridge assembly to keep it from bottoming out agaist the body while the strings are loose. The strings don't need to be fully removed, just slack enough to lift them out of the nut slots and let rest three on either side. I removed the three string clamps, pulled the strings aside and removed the nut. It's just two small wood screws that attach it to the neck. Under the nut were two full width shims of 150 grit sandpaper plus a third half-width piece under the bass side. .030" worth of shims that really didn't need to be there. The half width stayed under the bass side of the nut and the bridge pivot screws got 4 and 5 full turns (bass/treble sides respectively) clockwise. (they have very fine threads compared to the posts used on a Tun-o-matic) I could go lower, but doing so tends to hinder clean bends.
There ya go LP, you don't need brass shims to raise the nut. I would recommend them, though, as sandpaper can be a bit spongy. Not good for note sustain.