Music room soundproofing tips

Ted_Zeppelin

I’ll agree with you so that both of us are wrong.
I am looking at creating a “music” room in an unfinished part of my basement. I am not a handyman by any stretch, so most of the work will be hired out. What I am trying to sort through is what are the best soundproofing options to keep as much of the sound in the room? I am just starting to research this project, so any info that you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Drywall, ceilings, insulation, baffles, etc... I don’t need this to be recording studio quality but I want to do it good enough to keep most of the sound from escaping to the adjoining finished basement or through the ceiling to the upstairs. I would like to do a drop ceiling but not if I can’t keep the sound from escaping. One consistent thing that I have seen from a few YouTube videos is the use of two 5/8” drywall panels with soundproofing green glue between them. The space is in the corner of the house, so two of the walls are outside walls. I think the ceiling is going to be the most important to soundproof as good as possible. Thoughts and ideas?
 

JPsuff

Blackstar Artist
I am looking at creating a “music” room in an unfinished part of my basement. I am not a handyman by any stretch, so most of the work will be hired out. What I am trying to sort through is what are the best soundproofing options to keep as much of the sound in the room? I am just starting to research this project, so any info that you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Drywall, ceilings, insulation, baffles, etc... I don’t need this to be recording studio quality but I want to do it good enough to keep most of the sound from escaping to the adjoining finished basement or through the ceiling to the upstairs. I would like to do a drop ceiling but not if I can’t keep the sound from escaping. One consistent thing that I have seen from a few YouTube videos is the use of two 5/8” drywall panels with soundproofing green glue between them. The space is in the corner of the house, so two of the walls are outside walls. I think the ceiling is going to be the most important to soundproof as good as possible. Thoughts and ideas?

Best way to go would be:

  • Ceiling: Rockwool insulation then 5/8 drywall ( or double half-inch if you're feeling ambitious).
  • Outside Walls: 2x4 framing Rockwool insulation, 1/2 inch drywall (I'm assuming there's concrete behind).
  • Wall adjacent to finished area: 5/8 drywall over existing wall then 2x4 new framing with 1 to 2 inch airspace from existing; Rockwool insulation.
  • New wall: Double 2x4 (two individually framed walls, staggered w/airspace between, 5/8 drywall, Rockwool insulation.
  • 2 solid core doors for entry.
Sounds like a lot but it's really not as much work as you might think. But build it like that and you could set off M-80's in there and no one would bat an eyelash.
 

PapaBear

Guit Fiddlier
Best way to go would be:

  • Ceiling: Rockwool insulation then 5/8 drywall ( or double half-inch if you're feeling ambitious).
  • Outside Walls: 2x4 framing Rockwool insulation, 1/2 inch drywall (I'm assuming there's concrete behind).
  • Wall adjacent to finished area: 5/8 drywall over existing wall then 2x4 new framing with 1 to 2 inch airspace from existing; Rockwool insulation.
  • New wall: Double 2x4 (two individually framed walls, staggered w/airspace between, 5/8 drywall, Rockwool insulation.
  • 2 solid core doors for entry.
Sounds like a lot but it's really not as much work as you might think. But build it like that and you could set off M-80's in there and no one would bat an eyelash.
It would add a bit of expense but you cold also top those new walls with a ceiling that doesn't contact the floor system above
 

JPsuff

Blackstar Artist
It would add a bit of expense but you cold also top those new walls with a ceiling that doesn't contact the floor system above

True but that would either mean isolation dampers (which are a real PITA with drywall) or separate rafters which would lower the ceiling height in the music room and might require beam/column support.

Another way would be to Rockwool the existing ceiling joists, apply drywall and then install a dropped ceiling and add some more Rockwool in the gap between.

Retrofitting soundproofing is always far more difficult in existing construction.
But the fact that it's a basement with only the upper floors and an adjacent room to deal with makes it easier than a central room in the living space.
 

CaptainMoto

Blues Voyager
I built a sound Isolated studio in my home about 2 years ago.
It's quite an expensive and tedious project.

The basic construction was double layers of 5/8th drywall on each side of the studs with green glue sandwiched between.
On the studio side, the drywall is hung on channel strips and isolation clips.
Rock wool insulation in all cavities and lots of attention to detail using acoustical caulk at all seems of each layer.

Your weak points will be doors and HVAC vents.

The door I installed is almost 3 inches thick and weighs over 300 lbs.

This is a good recourse for guidance and material:
https://isostore.com/product-catalo...8-NnV4Ye4h0F_58wqRyh_eL_ewIA8m2xoCvwIQAvD_BwE


Here's an old thread on the subject:
http://bluesguitarunleashed.com/forum/index.php?threads/studio-build.26116/
 

CaptainMoto

Blues Voyager
A few additional thoughts:

You need to have a target STC level in mind to get you where you need to go.
I'm at about 52 between rooms and that does the job.

When you add walls/ ceiling it's not only important to get the layers and insolation right but to also get it all sealed with acoustical caulk.
Think of the room as if you where making it water proof, every seam and crack needs to be sealed, other wise all the other work is for naught.

Once you have the room completely sealed, that presents a ventilation issue.
You can literally run out of air in a air tight room.
If you have forced air heating/cooling, you need to address those vents /ducts with duct liner, baffles and or flexible ducts to minimize sound reflections passing to the rest of the house.

Sound isolation usually requires mass and isolation, meaning heavy materials and a way to minimize vibration passing though the structure.
The green glue sandwich in one way to help reduce the transfer of vibration but it may not get you all the way to your desired STC goal.
Channel strips and clips is a pain to install but is very effective.

I contracted guys who put that stuff up like they where hanging cardboard.
They attached the clips and channels and hung 12' x 8' sheets of 5/8th drywall on the ceiling with ease. There is no way on earth I could have done that.
 
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Ted_Zeppelin

I’ll agree with you so that both of us are wrong.
From what I have read so far, it seems to be a fine line between doing it correctly (without overkill) and not doing enough so that what you end up with is not good enough to control the sound. My wife is on board (she actually floated the idea) but having been married to her for 36 years, I know she will impose certain restrictions. We are already in negotiations as far as how big the room will be:whistle:. I anticipate losing most of the battles, so I need to pick and choose wisely. The area is in the ideal spot. It’s the far end of the house, underneath the two extra bedrooms that are not used unless the kids/grandkids are at the house.
 

CaptainMoto

Blues Voyager
From what I have read so far, it seems to be a fine line between doing it correctly (without overkill) and not doing enough so that what you end up with is not good enough to control the sound. My wife is on board (she actually floated the idea) but having been married to her for 36 years, I know she will impose certain restrictions. We are already in negotiations as far as how big the room will be:whistle:. I anticipate losing most of the battles, so I need to pick and choose wisely. The area is in the ideal spot. It’s the far end of the house, underneath the two extra bedrooms that are not used unless the kids/grandkids are at the house.
I hear ya,
I spent Big money designing and building my room.
It's more about keeping peace in the household then building a music room.
 
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ervjohns

Blues Junior
When I built a home theater room in my basement I used a specialty drywall that combines 2 layers of drywall with a membrane, I think it is called quiet rock or something. It is very effective and although it is heavier than standard drywall it is no harder to install. Lot easier than installing 2 layers of standard drywall.
 

straightblues

Blues Junior
I was a commerical real estate developer. I had a medical building with a bunch of psychiastrist who were very worried about sound transmission as you can imagine. What I learned is dampining the sound or lowering it is doable and not overly expensive. But eliminating it is super expensive and nearly impossible to achive. Doors, windows and AC vents are the main problems as others have said.

In the basement, you need to get a seperation from the rooms cieling so the sound doesn't go up into the main living floor. You need a air gap between the roof of your space and the ceiling above. You are basically building a room within the room that connects to the exisiting room as minimally as possible.

If I were you, I would focus on achieving something like tv volume coming from the room. If you do that, your choices will be easier and much cheaper. And everyone will be happy.

I would use an incremental approach. Try the minimal approach first and then add if you need more.
 

dan5150

Shredding the Blues
Real soundproofing (as you can see from the great detailed suggestions above) is expensive. And, if you ever plan on selling the house, you may not get (that part of) your investment back out of it.

So, just how loud are you planning to be?
 

Ted_Zeppelin

I’ll agree with you so that both of us are wrong.
[QUOTE="dan5150, post: 426295, member: 475]

So, just how loud are you planning to be?[/QUOTE]

There are days that I just need to see how loud that little Marshall amp will go:whistle::whistle::whistle:. This room will be a combination music listening room / guitar playing area. I am not planning on completely soundproofing the room. By the time it is all said and done, it may not be able to contain the sound as well as I hope, but currently all of my music making equipment is in the basement with an open stairwell to the upstairs. From what I have read, there are reasonable ways to mute a fairly good percent of the sound outside of a room. As far as getting my investment back out of this when I sell the house, I’m sure there have been several upgrades done to the house that will not see a good return on investment. As long as I enjoy the things I do to the house during the remaking years that 8 will live here, that’s really all that matters.
 

CaptainMoto

Blues Voyager
[QUOTE="dan5150, post: 426295, member: 475]

So, just how loud are you planning to be?

There are days that I just need to see how loud that little Marshall amp will go:whistle::whistle::whistle:. This room will be a combination music listening room / guitar playing area. I am not planning on completely soundproofing the room. By the time it is all said and done, it may not be able to contain the sound as well as I hope, but currently all of my music making equipment is in the basement with an open stairwell to the upstairs. From what I have read, there are reasonable ways to mute a fairly good percent of the sound outside of a room. As far as getting my investment back out of this when I sell the house, I’m sure there have been several upgrades done to the house that will not see a good return on investment. As long as I enjoy the things I do to the house during the remaking years that 8 will live here, that’s really all that matters.[/QUOTE]

Invest in yourself, don't worry about home resale
 

Tayport

Blues Newbie
When we refinished our basement I used Owens Corning soundguard insulation from Home Depot between the ceiling joists before the drywall went up. I have everything set up down there and it does help.
 
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