Inexpensive string radius guages

[Elwood]

If you have Teles or strats, or any guitar with a separate saddle bridge, you appreciate the need for a radius guage that gives you a reference for setting the ht. of each individual string to match the radius of the fretboard (or whatever you want it to - not going there). Each of my teles have different string radius. So for as I looked for a set of gauges for all three they would be close to 50 bucks from the sources like Stew Mac and such.

Until I found this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPGT4DF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is not a luthier grade set. The understring radius gauges are just fine. All the flat stuff seems to measure out OK for accuracy (eyeball accuracy) but the edges are very sharp, I rubbed a bit of 2000 grit on the edges just so they lost their bite.

For $17 bucks they fill a need, and are plenty good for now and then usage. Even comes in a nice little storage bag. They are nice enough I thought some of you might be interested.

 

[david moon]

I''ve got the Stew Mac set which works fine. I don't remember what I payed. You can measure radius on the strings from the underside, or measure radius on the fingerboard. It's sometimes hard to distinguish minor differences like 10" or 12" radius

 

[Tayport]

I bought an inexpensive set from Amazon as well. I put them on a key ring to keep them in order and used them a lot when I was restringing and tinkering during lock down.

 

[Rancid Rumpboogie]

My fingers and eyeballs have served me fine for 50 years, no need to change now.

 

[Elwood]

My fingers and eyeballs have served me fine for 50 years

I like to feel the same way but facts are facts, and the fact of the matter is that I have "advanced in my wisdom" to the point that I do better choosing what works best for what.

I can hear a string as it makes buzzing contact with the radius gauges when I pick it as I lower it into adjustment. My eyes figured out if I want to see something that measures out to a few thousandths I most likely don't need to see it at all, or maybe I'd like to see a few of them?

I sure appreciate your confidence in your free hand craftsmanship, wish I had/still had it. Most folks do a better job of close tolerance work using measurement tools.

I still know the 'feel" of a feeler gauge, can read a scale given time, and can hear metal contact metal, so for me gauges are a good fix. Since I don't use them frequently, these meet my needs. I lost my passion for buying everything that is "the best". Good enough is good enough for me.
I very much enjoy seeing how close I get freehand. More and more I find measuring helps me to get the result I am used to getting. And I'm cheap!

Hey RR, so I guess where I'm at is I'm a dial caliper guy, haven't made the move to digital, won't now. Never was a vernier man. Actually I'm more of a caliper and flashlight guy.

 

[Tayport]

My fingers and eyeballs have served me fine for 50 years, no need to change now.

I bought the radius gauges as I as I was curious and wanted to know what I had on the different necks. Lockdown will do that to you

 

[MikeR]

I use the "String Action Ruler" that's a part of that set for string height. If I have a neck that I don't know the radius, I use this: http://www.pickguardian.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pickguardian-Neck-Radius-Gauges.pdf

 

[Elwood]

I use this: http://www.pickguardian.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Pickguardian-Neck-Radius-Gauges.pdf

That's funny Mike! I used those too, for a while and they work quite well! (you can go nuts cutting a nice set out of card stock) I can get my fretboard radius from the U of Google, but where the Steel gauges shine (for me anyway) is in the ease of use. I can usually get close by eye, but if I set both E strings to the ht. I want (OEM spec, lower?) and if I don't like my radius, I can loosen the 4 middle strings (to ease pressure on the adjusters). Then I can pop the radius gauge under the strings and carefully lower each string until it has equal damping from the string hitting the radius gauge. This can take a few passes but it works for me. (obviously start with them just a bit high if needed.)
Again, this only matters if your guitar has separate saddles for each string.

That string action rule sure help me get going too Mike.

All you guys that build those amazing guitars, I am in total awe!!! I just try to find stuff that is not too pricey and works. I sure don't want to point anyone the wrong way!

 

[Rancid Rumpboogie]

I have always just done what I later saw that Anthony Stauffer also does.
1. Set the two most outside strings to as low as they will go with no buzz.
2. Raise high E just a tad to assure being able to "grab" it easy with a finger for a deep bend.
3. Raise the A string just a tad higher than the low E.
4. Raise the B string just a tad higher than the high E.
5. Raise the D string just a tad higher than the A string.
6. Raise the G string just a tad higher than the B string.
Play the guitar. It is usually right how I like it. If not, tweak accordingly. I find that the actual fret board radius pretty much doesn't matter, because this easily accommodates easy bending on a 7.25" fretboard, and as the fretboards get flatter, my main concern is easily "grabbing" strings for bends much more than height above the frets.

 

[dwparker]

I have always just done what I later saw that Anthony Stauffer also does.
1. Set the two most outside strings to as low as they will go with no buzz.
2. Raise high E just a tad to assure being able to "grab" it easy with a finger for a deep bend.
3. Raise the A string just a tad higher than the low E.
4. Raise the B string just a tad higher than the high E.
5. Raise the D string just a tad higher than the A string.
6. Raise the G string just a tad higher than the B string.
Play the guitar. It is usually right how I like it. If not, tweak accordingly. I find that the actual fret board radius pretty much doesn't matter, because this easily accommodates easy bending on a 7.25" fretboard, and as the fretboards get flatter, my main concern is easily "grabbing" strings for bends much more than height above the frets.

I gotta agree with this method. I got a set of radius gauges, tried measuring with them, and found that I was pretty much spot on anyways without them. For myself, I didn't really see the benefit. But I understand if others find them useful.